Hyderabad recently savoured the coastal flavours of India at The Glass House, Jubilee Hills, during a two-day pop-up by Mumbai’s Kari Apla, helmed by Chef duo Mathew Varghese and Ebaani Tewari. The dynamic husband-wife chef duo, Mathew Varghese and Ebaani Tewari, both alumni of IHM Mumbai aka Dadar Catering College, transported Hyderabadi diners on a nostalgic journey through the vibrant flavour of India’s Deccan Coast.
From May 24th to 25th, the exclusive two-day pop-up served up regional comfort food in the traditional style, on banana leaves. The very name Kari Apla itself is a culinary fusion – a playful blend of ‘Karivepila’ (Malayalam for curry leaves) with ‘Kari’ and ‘Apla’ (Marathi for ‘our’), embodying their shared culinary story.
Chef Mathew, a proud Malayali raised in Kolkata, infused his dishes with the vibrant flavors of the Malabar Coast and Syrian Christian household. Chef Ebaani, a Mumbai native, paid homage to her Maharashtrian heritage and familial roots in Goa, Andhra Pradesh, and Chennai, while also weaving in her love for Asian cuisine and French techniques.
Before the pop-up, Chef Mathew shared his enthusiasm, detailing their collaboration with Dr. Shabnam Banu, an Academy Member of Culinary Culture Co. and owner of The Glass House. The menu, he explained, was a carefully curated exploration of India’s coastline, stretching from the spice-rich shores of Malabar and Konkan to beyond, all presented with a deep sense of tradition and storytelling.
Diners savored an array of exquisite dishes, including Chicken Pepper Fry, featuring chicken sautéed in a black pepper and onion masala; Madurai Mutton Cutlet, Madurai-inspired mutton and chana dal cutlets; Malwani Fried Fish, marinated in a spicy Malwani masala and served fried; Kerala Prawn Roast, Syrian Christian style prawns cooked in a dry onion and coconut roast; and Goan Chicken Xacuti, a rich Goan curry made with roasted coconut, warm spices, and coriander
The meal was complemented by traditional sides like Tomato Varan, Green Bean Poriyal, Ghee Rice, and Idiyappam, alongside accompaniments such as Koshimbir, Inji Puli, Beetroot Pachadi, and Kadu Manga Pickle. For dessert, the unique Alphonso Mango & Tender Coconut Gadbad offered a sweet conclusion.
“Ebaani actually curates a lot of pop-ups and dining experiences across the parts of the country,” Chef Mathew noted, mentioning a recent successful event in Pune. The collaboration with Dr. Shabnam Banu was organic, stemming from her previous visits to Kari Apla’s Mumbai restaurant. “She’s come to our restaurant and dined in the past. So she thought, ours is an interesting concept, and she helped us organise this pop-up and introduce Kari Apla’s flavours to Hyderabad,” he explained.
The response from Hyderabad was overwhelmingly positive. “Oh, it’s been very good. The feedback is very good,” Chef Ebaani shared. Both chefs agreed that Kari Apla offered a unique culinary experience in the city. “I don’t think too many restaurants that offer what we offer are there in Hyderabad. It’s something very unique and very different for this market,” they elaborated. They emphasised that unlike some of Hyderabad’s spicier offerings, Kari Apla’s food is characterised by its subtlety and depth of flavor. “It’s very subtle and it’s very flavorful. That’s what we concentrate on,” said Ebaani.
This successful pop-up marks another significant step for Kari Apla, which opened its doors in Mumbai in October 2023. As a small, owner-operated establishment, pop-ups are crucial for reaching a wider audience. “The reason behind doing pop ups is, to reach out to a larger audience,” Mathew affirmed.
As owner-chefs, Mathew and Ebaani are deeply involved in every aspect of their restaurant, from the kitchen to management. Their ability to venture out for such events speaks to the strong team they’ve built back home. “It took us years to get the right team and set up to a level where we could leave it to them.”
Hyderabad foodies can certainly hope for more delicious takeovers from Kari Apla in the future.